Take a detour from Vietnam’s beautiful beaches, for high in the mountains awaits a city of mystical charm, as GREG HACKETT discovers
As we sit idly and sip coffee by the city’s central lake, low hanging, bruise colored clouds encircle the city and threaten to unload a chilly drenching – but not so, as a stabbing ray of sunshine bathes this area in balmy warmth.
This is Dalat, perched 1500m above sea level in the southern Central Highlands of Vietnam. This famous city is only a few hours by winding road from the seaside and tourism hub Nha Trang, however it is a world away from the semi-tropical South-East Asia that most of us know. To quote my friend and fellow travel scribe, Kevin Moloney, of Australian television’s “Travel Guides” fame: Dalat is “a magical place”.
The capital of Lam Dong Province, Dalat is fondly known as “City of Eternal Spring”; perhaps “City in the Clouds” is an even more fitting description, given the enchanting mystique of the often blanketing mist.
The frequently changing climate can conjure all four seasons in one day (and arguably rivals Australia’s southern state capital city, Melbourne!)
French colonialists developed Dalat in the early 1900s as a holiday refuge from Vietnam’s generally hot, humid climate. The coolness surely reminded many of them of the French Alps.
Dalat has a population of about half a million residents, however expect the city’s bustling streets to be swelling with visitors, both domestic and foreign.
The fertile land produces much agricultural bounty: flowers, fruit, vegetables, meat, pine trees, tea, dairy, and a preserved fruit confectionery called múrt – similar to candied/glacé fruit, and a popular treat for Eastern Europeans.
And there is coffee! Vietnam’s coffee is celebrated near and far. Expect to hear: “That ca phe (cafe) is famous.” And expect to hear it said, for almost every cafe! From simple side-street “sipping stations” to theme inspired lavish lounges on prime real estate, the enjoyment of coffee is serious business and integral to modern Vietnamese culture. It is a bedrock of the country’s tourism.
Food: every restaurant menu you would expect to find anywhere in Vietnam, plus local wild game are a specialty, such as venison, porcupine, and boar.
Is everyone, every night, at the Dalat Night Market? It seems to be so. The precinct is jam packed with people, and vendors with bargains. If visiting as a couple or a group, stick close together. And don’t forget to take an umbrella – rainbursts like to arrive unannounced.
Be aware: taxis are in high demand (hey, it rains here a lot!) and Grab car drivers (Vietnam’s version of Uber) can afford to be choosy about which fares they accept, so plan ahead and book in advance.
Vietnam built a nuclear reactor for physics research and power generation near Dalat in 1984. In 2022, Vietnam’s government announced renewed interest in the reactor to help reduce the country’s energy carbon emissions. Renewable energy projects include solar power, and wind turbines can be glimpsed on the far side of high mountain ridges while travelling through the province.
Much has been written about, and images shared of, Dalat, and this is merely a taste of what to see and do. Best advice is to put Dalat high on your Vietnam travel plans, and please share your experiences with us.
(Asian Journeys column Aug-Sept 2024)
https://asianjourneys.com.sg/eMagazine/singapore/2024-08-01/page-1#book/15
