For those of you with your sartorial snouts firmly affixed on men’s fashion, you will have noted that suiting is stylish once more.
The resurgence of recreational suiting amongst modern men has gained traction over the past couple of years. As a reaction to being confined to the house, draped solely in loungewear and pyjamas during our years of lockdowns. A desire to be besuited has manifested itself within men globally.
Of course, like any aspect of fashion. Style and personal taste dictate the final outfit choices for each individual. However, broadly speaking, this new wave of suiting is built around softer, and wider silhouettes. This approach to the suit, and suiting, could traditionally be said to come under the branch of ‘preppy’ fashion. Now I do think that that is still an adequate description for it, but I much prefer the term ‘boyish gent’. In essence, this new approach revolves around dressing smartly and debonair, but with a youthful mischievousness at it’s heart.
Silhouettes of blazers in this softer style tend to be very slouchy, with an oversized and boxy cut to them. The sack jacket is a blazer style that is having a resurgence because of this. As a piece that is intended for layering on top of knitwear or an over-shirt, it is perfect for transitional seasons. Hardy materials such as tweed and corduroy are perfect for this style. Think Donald Sutherland in ‘Animal House’, geography teacher chic if you will.
As well as the oversized blazer and sack jacket, the double-breasted blazer is once again, massively in favour. Where the single breasted blazer is becoming an everyday go-to. The double breasted blazer is becoming a popular choice for formal occasions. Harking back to styles popular in the 70’s. The pairing of a wide lapelled double breasted blazer with an even wider collared shirt and a chunky tie, is a formal look that oozes cool.
Softer suiting, often plays with knitted textures under blazers. Case in point are cardigans, sweater vests, and both crew and v-necked jumpers. A mid-layer, like those I’ve mentioned, adds to the relaxed look of the boyish gentleman, and to the cosy feeling of wearing this look too. Also gaining popularity is the shirt with a curved collar. This style of shirt emphasises the softness of these modern looks by literally and metaphorically removing the traditional connotation of sharpness attributed to suiting.
As I eluded to earlier, in the leg wear department, wide-legged, single and double pleated trousers are in vogue. Heavyweight cottons, wools and tweeds are a staple for the winterised suit, and lighter cottons work a treat in the summer. Furthermore, both two-piece sets, and mismatched trousers are fitting options. A blazer and trouser set will always be an exceedingly spruce option for suiting. Although, by contrasting colours and materials in the two halves of a suit, your look has the ability to exude a uniqueness and effortlessness.
As with any movement sweeping through fashion and gaining momentum. Many fashion labels are producing exquisite pieces attuned to softer suiting. Out of America’s northeast coast come Noah, Aime Leon Dore, and fashion stalwart, Ralph Lauren. With an Ivy League-cum-writers lounge feel, these brands have provided a handful of thoughtfully made two-piece sets in their autumn/winter collections. As opposed to Husbands Paris, who have been sneaking up on us for a few years, to be currently breaking out as stars of modern tailoring. Their ready to wear collections are also sleek examples of suits that adhere to the aforementioned principles of the softer suit movement. Hailing from Copenhagen, Mfpen are another brand that have for a while now been releasing super slouchy single and double breasted blazers from dead-stock Italian fabrics. An increasingly sought after label for proponents of slow fashion.
It’s not only labels that are helming the reemergence of casual suiting. In the world of the full-time ‘influencer’, it would be remiss of me to discount the influence that the internet’s fashion it-crowd have had on this suiting renaissance. There are a handful of names that immediately come to mind. However, the two that I feel encapsulate the essence of the boyish gent and best nail the softer suiting look, are Blondey McCoy and Tyler-the-Creator. These two handsome gents have been regularly rocking the casual ties and tassel loafers for a while now. As well as both men respectively owning clothing labels that are embodiments of their own roguish character.
Softer suiting is not only about accessibility to dressing well by lessening the focus on sharp sets and allowing functionality through mismatching pieces. It’s an ethos borne of a counter-covid desire to tap into the inherent confidence that you get from putting on a suit, versus putting on a hoody or tracksuit. To put it even more pointedly, why save your Sunday best just for a Sunday?
Embrace the bounce in your stride, whilst you suit softly into the day.
